More New York City

Saturday meant a change of hotels and meeting up with Mark and Kelly who were flying in from Sioux Falls in the afternoon.
Before heading over to Murray Hill, we caught the subway to Washington Square in Greenwich Village for breakfast.
Being a child of the 60s, the park was all I had imagined it to be and not over run with people at that time of the morning.
The Washington Arch at the 5th Avenue entrance to the park is very impressive.

After dropping off our bags at the Eastgate Tower Hotel, we took the subway up to Central Park and sat a while people watching before visiting the Neue Galerie to see a Gustav Klimt exhibition.
Then it was back to Grand Central Station area for lunch (reasonable Mexican) and a look in and around that impressive building.


It was either the remnants of jet lag, the Saturday crowds or the sauna like conditions of the subway stations but we soon were back in the air conditioned comfort of the hotel room.
Kelly and Mark arrived on time and that evening we were soon on our way to Times Square.
The whole area is lit up like a Christmas tree with thousands of people milling around cheek by jowl. Street entertainers are everywhere as are the hustlers and touts. We had a good burger and beer at a pub just off the square and visited the huge Toys R Us store. After this frenetic scene we retired to our apartment for the night with a few bottles of wine.

Next morning we were off early to catch the ferry to Ellis Island.
After airport type security at the wharf, we sailed over to the Statue of Liberty were most of the passengers except us disembarked and then onto the Ellis Island National Monument.
We virtually had the place to ourselves for the first hour or so.
We took the free guided tour with the park ranger who led us through the process that over 12 million immigrants experienced. Following that we toured the museum and watched a movie on the history of the island. Turned out to be a pretty emotional time.
The island is still in the process of being restored but what is open to the public is a 'must see' on any trip to New York City.

The World Trade Centre site with the new construction slowly emerging from a giant hole in the ground was next on the agenda.

That night we were back on Broadway for the show 'Chicago'. A good production in a smallish intimate theater with great leads and orchestra (band?).
A late dinner at a Greek restaurant near Times Square finished off a very busy day.

Next morning we were back in Greenwich Village for a walking food tour.
We ate in pizza shops, delis, bistros, cookie shops and cafes. In addition we given a history of the area as we walked the busy commercial and peaceful residential streets with their very smart houses.




That evening we walked around the Rockefeller Center area. It's here you become aware of the immense skyscrapers. We had appetizers and a good bottle of Rioja Tempranillo Rose' in a nice restaurant overlooking overlooking the Rockefeller Plaza.


Next morning the heavens had opened up so we made our way early to the Metropolitan Museum of Art for opening time. It was relatively uncrowded when we arrived and after the ever present security check, we split up and headed for our 'interest zones'. I spent the first two hours mostly alone in the European Art Section and, after meeting up with the co driver for morning tea, another 2 hours in the Modern and Contemporary Art Section. There is no way you could 'do' this place in less than a week and as visual overload (and now the crowds) took over we both waved the white flag.

It was still pouring and as we stood under a small awning wondering where to go to eat, we found that awning belonged to a French restaurant called 'Demarchelier'. What a find! Wonderful genuine French food, good wine list and easy going attitude. We spent 2 hours there over a main, a dessert and a bottle of Sancerre and never felt the need to 'move on'. Obviously one of the few places in New York not in a hurry. It's on the corner of 86th and Madison if you are ever in town.
That night we caught a cab through still driving rain back to Greenwich Village to a Cuban restaurant recommended by our tour guide the previous day. The menu initially did not look too exciting but the flavours were quite different and tasted great, the service attentive and a good experience to have on our last night in New York.

Sydney to New York

The flight from Sydney to San Francisco, as usual, was long but uneventful. We each had spare seats beside us which made things a lot more comfortable.

We were quickly through immigration and customs and had a three hour wait for our on going flight to JFK.

The five hour flight to New York started with a delay. One of the spark plugs used to start the engine (who knew jet engines had spark plugs?) was faulty and needed replacement. Then at cruising altitude we experienced some wake turbulence from an aircraft in front of us which caused a few anxious moment for the white knuckle brigade. Their trauma was not over as our landing was quite a spectacular one, all twist and bounce. When we deplaned the pilot had already left the cockpit. A bad day at the office for him.

It was then a high speed taxi ride into Manhattan where we could finally lay ourselves down on the wonderful bed at the Trump Soho at 1am. That made the trip around 27 hours door to door. But the view over the city from our room on the 39th floor, especially from the bath tub with its huge picture window, made up for any discomfort.
It was spectacular to say the least.

Seven hours later we were having breakfast at a local diner. What else but bacon, eggs and pancakes for one and salmon and cream cheese bagels for the other.

Then it was off to explore some of the city using the subway system. We had the MTA map but it soon became apparent that finding a subway station entrance for the uninitiated was going to be a bit of a hurdle. They can be well disguised or hidden. But we have to say that the $29 New York subway pass valid for a week was the bargain of the whole trip and we really got our money's worth.

Finally we reached Battery Park and boarded the Staten Island ferry for a free return trip across the Hudson River. Here we caught our first glimpse of the Statue of Liberty and the skylines of Manhattan and New Jersey.

After this very pleasant 'cruise' it was onto the Brooklyn Bridge. By this time things had really warmed up and the humidity had climbed. We were glad for the many vendors selling cold water on the bridge. We made it half way for a great view back over the lower Manhattan skyline.

In search of the New Museum we found ourselves in Little Italy and on Mulberry Street. The pic below is from the Ellis Island Museum of this street in the 1800s. Nothing has changed much except for the fashion and transport.

So many restaurants to choose from. We found one that had a beautiful outdoor garden in amongst the buildings and away from the traffic noise and the hustle and bustle of the city. Good Italian food, cold beer...an oasis.

The New Museum had an exhibition of the arts scene in eastern bloc countries from the emergence of communism to its decline called "Ostalgia". Five floors of paintings, films, sketches, cartoons and sculpture, some of it was very weird!

Jet lag had started to rear its ugly head by this time so we headed back to the hotel for a siesta to prepare for our dinner date.

The Tribeca Grill is co owned by Rober de Niro and has a good reputation. It exceeded our expectations with nicely prepared food, excellent service and an encyclopedic wine list. I found a great bottle of Sagrantino from Umbria to go with the filet mignon.

Our food budget was already blown on the first night.

Next morning we were up early (sleep didn't come easy that night) and headed for Highline Park and the Chelsea Markets. The park is built on an abandoned elevated railway spur and runs for over a 2km. A walk along the path between the high rise buildings after a cappo and a muffin was a pleasant way to start the day.

We had decided to 'do' a Broadway show and had selected Cole Porter's "Anything Goes". Tickets, however, were very expensive. We had been told to head down to the TKTS booth in Seaport for cheaper tickets and avoid the crowd that queues at the same establishment in Times Square. Being already one day veterans of the subway system we headed downtown (via a yoga shop in Chelsea) only to find a queue of at least 300 people standing there. No way, Jose'. Too hot and humid to stand in the sun for hours. Change of Broadway show plans!

Then it was back uptown to the American Folk Art Museum on Lincoln Square to see their quilt collection. They were in the process of 'moving house' so the exhibition was limited but the star quilts were amazing and the 9/11 National Tribute Quilt was very moving.

Time for lunch so we walked down Broadway through Columbus Circle to the Carnegie Deli for one of their famous sandwiches.

What can you say? We shared half a pastrami sandwich and could not finish it. All very touristy and rather OTT but a fun experience. The pickles were great.

Another long walk took us to a quilt store (the co driver had a list of quilt and yoga shops to visit in all our destinations) which turned out to be a bit of a disappointment.

So with spirits lagging and feet complaining we headed back to the Trump for another jet lag inspired nap and an early dinner in one of the many nearby restaurants in Spring Street, Soho.

September in the USA

By the time you read this we will be well into our USA trip.
The plans were to fly direct from Sydney to New York via San Francisco.
It will be long, long day.
I estimate from leaving home to putting our heads down on the NYC hotel pillow will be around 24 hours.
We will have a few days there by ourselves before catching up with family and doing more of the sights.


Then it will be onto Washington DC with them by train.
After a few days there they will return home and the co driver and I will fly on to Nashville.
Then we head for South Dakota to catch up with the rest of the rellies.
The co driver intends spending a few more weeks than I there so that should see me home at the end of the month.
Hopefully there will be lots of exciting things to write about on our return.

Some Winter Reading

"Our Vietnam" is a chronological history of the Vietnam war told from the main players aspect by one of my favourite American history authors, A.J Langguth. I have mentioned many of his books before.
If the huge waste of life caused by missed opportunities for peace due to political expediency, nationalism, outright lies and downright stubbornness and stupidity don't make you angry while reading this, nothing will. Neither Kennnedy, Johnson nor Nixon and their administrations come out of this smelling like roses. Neither do the various corrupt South Vietnam regimes. It's a pity that conservative Australian governments of the time followed our American allies so blindly into this morass.
George Santayana, Spanish philosopher, essayist, poet and novelist, once wrote "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it."
The War in Iraq unfortunately is a typical example.

A fiction novel based on fact, "Errol, Fidel and the Cuban Rebel Girls" is the story of Errol Flynn's relationship with Fidel Castro during the Cuban Revolution by Australian author, Boyd Anderson.
A rollicking tale full of humour, adventure and some interesting historical background to the Cuba of today. The characters, some very well known, all seem to be larger than life. But I guess that is Hollywood, even today.
A 'can't put down' book!

Thousands of jokes and one liners make "Man Walks into a Bar" a good read.
Lots of groaners too.
A great diversion when you are feeling down.
A pick up and put down book.

"Honolulu" is from the same author of "Moloka'i", a book I recommended earlier in the year.
This is the story of a Korean picture bride who left the her homeland in the early 2oth century for a 'better life' in America.
An interesting insight into Korean culture of the time plus a history of Hawaii and particularly Honolulu itself. Turns out not to be the glamour city it was protrayed to be in the 1920s and 30s. It is also a story of a the development of a multicultural society that is Hawaii today but one achieved at a cost ie. to the native Hawaiians
This is a work of fiction cleverly woven into historical fact.

An August Update

Physical activities have had to be rather limited during my recovery phase but friends and neighbours have jumped in to help so essential farm work has continued.
Finally my six weeks of enforced 'taking it easy' were over and I began catching up on all the postponed chores.
The Cabernet Sauvignon has been pruned and netting repaired.
All the wines have again been racked and sulphured.
Maybe I was a little harsh on the 2011 vintage. Three of the four wines are developing better than first thought.

Our new roof is on and looks good. Even better, no leaks!
We did have a coldish couple of weeks in the house. Wet weather delayed the roof reconstruction half way through and as the house was covered in tarpaulins we couldn't have a fire. Huddled over electric heaters made us appreciate how good our fire is and how worthwhile wood collecting during the year is.
Kudos to Ralph the builder. Not one drop of rain got into the house despite some torrential rain during the 'tarpaulin era'. Funny to see the house looking like some giant tent.
Spring is in the air and our early peach came into flower the last week of July.
And there was bud swell in the Pinot Noir mid August. My grape growing neighbour has bud burst already in his Chardonnay.
Who said climate change/global warming is a myth?

Even More Canberra Quilts

and in more detail

and in more detail

and in more detail